Part 37 (1/2)

The path ceased, and it was necessary to go diagonally up the steep hillside through the snow. From numberless guns at the base of the hill came steady reports, and as we ascended it was explained to me that I was about to visit the headquarters of Major General H----, commanding an army division.

”The last person I brought here,” said the young officer, smiling, ”was the Prince of Wales.”

We reached the top at last. There was a tiny farmhouse, a low stable with a thatched roof, and, towering over all, the arms of a great windmill. Chickens cackled round my feet, a pig grunted in a corner, and apparently from directly underneath came the ear-splitting reports of a battery as it fired.

”Perhaps I would better go ahead and tell them you are coming,” said the officer. ”These people have probably not seen a woman in months, and the shock would be too severe. We must break it gently.”

So he went ahead, and I stood on the crest of that wind-swept hill and looked across the valley to Messines, to Wytschaete and Ypres.

The battlefield lay spread out like a map. As I looked, clouds of smoke over Messines told of the bursting of sh.e.l.ls.

Major General H---- came hurrying out. His quarters occupy the only high ground, with the exception of the near-by hill with its ruined tower, in the neighbourhood of Ypres. Here, a week or so before, had come the King of Belgium, to look with tragic eyes at all that remained to him of his country. Here had come visiting Russian princes from the eastern field, the King of England, the Prince of Wales. No obscurities--except myself--had ever penetrated so far into the fastness of the British lines.

Later on in the day I wrote my name in a visitors' book the officers have established there, wrote under sprawling royal signatures, under the boyish hand of the Prince of Wales, the irregular chirography of Albert of Belgium, the blunt and soldierly name of General Joffre.

There are six officers stationed in the farmhouse, composing General H----'s staff. And, as things turned out, we did not require the white-paper sandwiches, for we were at once invited to luncheon.

”Not a very elaborate luncheon,” said General H----, ”but it will give us a great deal of pleasure to share it.”

While the extra places were being laid we went to the brow of the hill. Across the valley at the foot of a wooded ridge were the British trenches. The ground rose in front of them, thickly covered with trees, to the German position on the ridge.

”It looks from here like a very uncomfortable position,” I said. ”The German position is better, isn't it?”

”It is,” said General H---- grimly. ”But we shall take that hill before long.”

I am not sure, and my many maps do not say, but there is little doubt in my mind that the hill in question is the now celebrated Hill 60, of which so much has been published.

As we looked across sh.e.l.ls were bursting round the church tower of Messines, and the batteries beneath were sending out ear-splitting crashes of noise. Ypres, less than three miles away, but partly hidden in mist, was echoing the bombardment. And to complete the pandemonium of sound, as we turned, a _mitrailleuse_ in the windmill opened fire behind us.

”Practice!” said General H---- as I started. ”It is noisy here, I'm afraid.”

We went through the muddy farmyard back to the house. The staff was waiting and we sat down at once to luncheon at a tiny pine table drawn up before a window. It was not a good luncheon. The French wine was like vinegar, the food the ordinary food of the peasant whose house it was. But it was a cheerful meal in spite of the food, and in spite of a boil on General H----'s neck. The marvel of a woman being there seemed to grow, not diminish, as the meal went on.

”Next week,” said General H----, ”we are to have two parties of correspondents here. The penny papers come first, and later on the ha'pennies!”

That brought the conversation, as usual, to the feeling about the war in America. Like all the other officers I had met, these men were anxious to have things correctly reported in America, being satisfied that the true story of the war would undoubtedly influence any wavering of public opinion in favour of the Allies.

One of the officers was a Canadian, and for his benefit somebody told the following story, possibly by now familiar to America.

Some of the Canadian troops took with them to England a bit of the dash and impatience of discipline of the great Northwest. The story in question is of a group of soldiers at night pa.s.sing a sentry, who challenges them:

”Halt! Who goes there?”

”Black Watch.”

”Advance, Black Watch, and all's well.”

The next group is similarly challenged:

”Halt! Who goes there?”