Part 4 (1/2)

The Lyra was accordingly ordered to weigh this morning at daylight, for the purpose of examining the coast for ten or twelve leagues to the northward. We went out by a narrow pa.s.sage through the reefs, and in the course of the morning beat up to Sugar Loaf Island. We did not land upon it, but pa.s.sed near enough to see that it is richly cultivated on the lower parts, and that all the houses are collected into villages, shaded as usual by large trees round the bottom, and for one-third of the way up the sides of the peak. As this was our furthest point in the present survey, we tacked on reaching the Sugar Loaf, and coasted round the sh.o.r.es of a large square bay on the west side of the great island. The wind s.h.i.+fted gradually as we sailed along, blowing directly off the sh.o.r.e at every place, by which means we were enabled to complete the circuit of the bay before dark, after which we anch.o.r.ed in sixty-five fathoms water. Next morning we resumed our examination of the coast, but as the weather was fine, we hoisted out a boat and pulled close along the sh.o.r.e, while the brig kept her course at the distance of several miles. In this manner we traced the whole sh.o.r.e, till we came close to Napakiang, without seeing any port. We tried to land at several places, but were every where kept off by coral reefs stretching along the coast, at the distance of two or three hundred yards, and forming, to strangers at least, an impenetrable barrier. The canoes of the natives paddled away from us, and pa.s.sed through the surf by pa.s.sages which we were afraid to approach. We returned to the brig about two o'clock, and at three anch.o.r.ed in our former place at Napakiang.

The departure of the Lyra had excited a great sensation on sh.o.r.e; the chiefs came off to inquire of Captain Maxwell where the ”honee gua”

(little s.h.i.+p) was; but he did not choose to satisfy them, except by saying that they had trifled with him so long, and refused to let him land his casks and stores with such obstinacy, that he must endeavour to find some more favourable place at which to refit his s.h.i.+p. The effect was exactly what he wished; they intreated him not to think of moving from Napakiang; offered him not only large boats to put his stores in, but said he should have store-rooms on sh.o.r.e for whatever he desired, while his s.h.i.+p was refitting. They moreover granted him permission to land with his officers, and to go to the top of the hill without being guarded as formerly.

On the Lyra's anchoring, the chiefs came on board in great agitation, desiring to know what we had discovered. As we had actually nothing to relate, there was little difficulty in keeping our secret. They accompanied me on board the Alceste when I went to make my report, but Captain Maxwell, having found the advantage he had already gained by keeping them in ignorance of his intentions, was nowise communicative.

They now offered to allow his people to land for the purpose of was.h.i.+ng their clothes, which they had before refused to do, and in short, were in a mood to grant any thing, provided we were willing to remain at this part of the island. They did not pretend that this was out of regard for us, and it was easy to see that they apprehended more trouble in managing us any where else than at this place. Amongst the arguments used by them to dissuade us from going to the other end of the island, they said it was inhabited by savages. It came out accidentally too, that in the event of the s.h.i.+p's actually proceeding to other parts of the island, the six chiefs were to accompany us: so that they were probably influenced by considerations of personal convenience to make every exertion to prevent our moving.

3d of October.--The Lyra's crew were allowed to go on sh.o.r.e to-day to wash their clothes, and amuse themselves by running about on the side of the hill. Two of the sailors of this party, who happened to be singing near the well, drew a number of natives round them, who expressed great pleasure at hearing their songs. At first the crowd consisted entirely of the peasantry, who listened with great attention, and never interrupted the sailors; but in about half an hour, a person of some rank, with a number of attendants, came up, and begged them to sing several of their songs over again: we could not find out who this person was, but it was probably one of the chiefs, some of whom are remarkably fond of our music.

4th of October.--The survey on the reef was completed to-day: the only inconvenience we had experienced here, was the limited time which the tide allowed us each day, otherwise the situation was well adapted for a base, from its commanding a view of all parts of the anchorage. During the progress of the princ.i.p.al survey, the young gentlemen sent by Captain Maxwell, in conjunction with the mids.h.i.+pmen of the Lyra, completed a survey of the reef itself. A native of a genteel appearance, but not in the dress of a chief, visited the Lyra to-day, and gave me a present of two pipes and two bags of sweet potatoes.

5th of October.--Captain Maxwell called for me this morning at sunrise, on his way to the sh.o.r.e. The chiefs had not expected us so early, and our only companion for some time was an old peasant, who now and then ran on before to give notice of our approach. Two well dressed people shortly afterwards came up, and continued with us during our walk, which at first lay along the beach, but afterwards led into the country; some exception was taken to this by our companions, but as no attention was paid to them, they desisted.

After walking about a mile, we pa.s.sed through a grove of young trees, and found ourselves close to a village, which lies in the bottom of a glen highly cultivated, the houses being almost entirely hid by trees, of which the bamboo is the most conspicuous.

This village is surrounded by a close hedge, and every separate house also has an inclosure: some of the houses have attached to them neat arbours, formed of a light frame of bamboo covered with a variety of creepers. The rice fields are divided by small banks of earth, made to retain the water, and along the top of each bank there is a foot-path; the whole valley having much the air of a scene in India. A number of the villagers, accompanied by their children, came out to meet us, but there were no women amongst them: we pa.s.sed on, as they were evidently averse to our entering the village.

On our way across the valley we were attracted by the appearance of a cottage, so buried in foliage as to be completely hid from our view till we were within a few paces of the door. It was surrounded by a slight fence of rods, about an inch apart, with a line of creepers along the top, and hanging down on both sides: a wicker gate admitted us, and we entered the house, which we found divided into two apartments, eight feet square, besides a small verandah at one end. The floors, which were made of slips of bamboo, were raised about six inches from the ground, and covered with a straw mat. The walls were five feet high, being neatly wattled with split bamboo, above which rose a pointed thatched roof. It was occupied by an old man, whom we appeared to have disturbed at breakfast, for cups and tea-things were arranged on the floor; he asked us to sit down, and gave us pipes and tea. The little apartment we were in was as neat as any thing we had ever seen: on one side there was a set of shelves, with cups, bowls, and cooking utensils; on the others were hung various implements of husbandry, with hats and various dresses, all clean and in order. Higher up was a sort of loft or garret, formed by bamboo poles, laid horizontally from the top of the walls; on this were placed various tools, nets, and baskets. The fire-place was in the middle of one side, and sunk below the level. On the outside, in the s.p.a.ce between the house and the fence, there was a pigeon house and a poultry yard, and close to the little verandah spoken of before, there stood two spinning-wheels of a light and ingenious construction. All round on the outside of the fence, the trees were high and thick; and though the sun was above the hills, the house was completely shaded except at the end, where a small opening admitted the rays into the verandah. We staid some time with the old farmer, trying to express our admiration of the simplicity and beauty of his cottage, and then went up the opposite side of the valley.

Here we found a road like a dressed walk in a garden: following this, we pa.s.sed through a series of beautiful groves of bamboo and other trees, till at length, after winding about a good deal, we came to a double row of tall pine trees, interspersed with many others whose names we did not know, so as to form a walk which must be shady at all hours of the day.

This road we knew would lead to the town, and therefore when we had reached the highest point we turned to the right, and after a short walk reached the grove of trees which had been made the limit to our first walk on the 29th ultimo. At this place Captain Maxwell surprised the natives a good deal by shooting several birds on the wing, but they could not be prevailed upon to fire themselves, nor even to pull the trigger when no powder was in the pan.

6th of October.--After divine service to-day on board the Alceste, a long conference was held between Captain Maxwell and the five chiefs, when, after a good deal of discussion, it was agreed on their part to allow the Alceste's stores to be landed, for the purpose of getting at the leak. Our means of interpreting on these occasions are not the best that could be wished; but John, our Chinese, is nevertheless a keen fellow, and very ready with answers when pressed. We generally explain as fully as possible to John what our wishes are, and then leave him to communicate them the best way he can. An instance of his quickness occurred to-day, which seems worth mentioning. John had communicated to them, by Captain Maxwell's desire, that as the leak complained of was in the magazine, it would be necessary to land the powder: they debated a long time upon this, and then asked John ”Why the powder was not put on board the little s.h.i.+p?” John, who was not aware of any good reason, affected to be surprised at this question, which he refused to interpret, saying that if Captain Maxwell thought such a measure right, he would surely not have waited till they suggested it. The light in which he had thus put the question, made them earnestly desire him not to mention any thing about it, declaring at the same time, that they would willingly give a place for the powder, and for any other stores which Captain Maxwell might wish to land.

To-day for the first time they talked unreservedly of the king, whose name even they had hitherto studiously avoided: they spoke freely of his majesty's having sent all the stock and vegetables with which we were daily supplied. Captain Maxwell, who of course was very desirous of opening a communication with the court, intimated his wish to pay his respects as soon as might be convenient. They heard this with apparent satisfaction, and signified that his request should be made known to the king. We are at a loss to discover what can have caused this change of manner. We can only conjecture, that perhaps the king, on hearing so many reports about us, may have become desirous of seeing us himself. At all events it is clear that some alteration in the instructions to the chiefs must have been made, otherwise they would have shewn their usual reserve when the king's name was mentioned, and would on no account have allowed us to talk of visiting him.

At one o'clock we went on sh.o.r.e to look at the place a.s.signed by the chiefs for the reception of the Alceste's stores. It is an oblong inclosure, sixty yards by forty, surrounded by a wall twelve feet high, rather well built with squared coral: the entrance is by a large gate on the south side, from which there extends raised gravel walks, with clipped hedges, the intermediate s.p.a.ces being laid out in beds, like a garden. The temple in which we were feasted on the day of our first visit, occupies one corner of the inclosure; it is completely shaded by a grove of trees, which also overhang the wall. In that part of the garden directly opposite to the gate, at the upper end of the walk there is a smaller temple, nearly hid by the branches of several large banyan trees; and before it, at the distance of ten or twelve paces, a square awkward looking building, with a raised terrace round it. The temple first spoken of is divided by means of s.h.i.+fting part.i.tions into four apartments, and a verandah running all round, having a row of carved wooden pillars on its outer edge to support the roof, which extends considerably beyond it. The floor of the verandah is two feet from the ground, the roof is sloping and covered with handsome tiles, those forming the eaves being ornamented with flowers and various figures in relief; there are also several out-houses, and a kitchen communicating with them by covered pa.s.sages. In one of the inner apartments, at the upper end, there is a small recess containing a green shrub, in a high narrow flower-pot, having a Chinese inscription on a tablet hanging above it on the wall. On another side of the same room, there hangs the picture of a man rescuing a bird from the paws of a cat; the bird seems to have been just taken from a cage, which is tumbling over, with two other birds fluttering about in the inside: it is merely a sketch, but is executed in a spirited manner. In one of the back apartments we find three gilt images, eighteen inches high, with a flower in a vase before them. The roof of the temple within is ten feet high, and all the cornices, pillars, &c. are neatly carved into flowers and the figures of various animals. The ground immediately round it is divided into a number of small beds, planted with different shrubs and flowers; and on a pedestal of artificial rock, in one of the walks close to it, is placed a clay vessel of an elegant form, full of water, with a wooden ladle swimming on the top. On a frame near one of the out-houses, hangs a large bell, three feet high, of an inelegant shape, resembling a long bee-hive; the sides are two inches thick, and richly ornamented: its tone is uncommonly fine.

It was determined to appropriate part of the large temple to the use of the sick and their attendants; the a.s.sistant surgeon of the Alceste taking one room, and the gunner, who was to have the whole inclosure in his charge, another. The small temple at the upper end, being a retired spot, was fixed upon for the Lyra's observatory; the square building in the centre seemed well adapted for a magazine. At the gate a notice was hung up, both in English and Loo-choo, signifying that no person was to enter without a written pa.s.s from Captain Maxwell, or from one of the chiefs.

7th and 8th of October.--These days have been occupied in carrying the arrangements of Sunday into effect. It was very interesting to observe the care which the natives took of the sick, whom they a.s.sisted all the way from the beach to the temple; a number of people attended to support such of them as had barely strength enough to walk. When they were safely lodged, eggs, milk, fowls, and vegetables, were brought to them; and whenever any of them were tempted by the beauty of the scenery to walk out, several of the natives were ready to accompany them.

The powder was landed, and Mr. Holman, the gunner of the frigate, began the operation of drying it on hides spread in the sun round the magazine. The cows and other stock were also landed. One of the cows calved that night, to the surprise of every body, and the great joy of the natives, who took a great fancy to the little bull born amongst them. Mr. Mayne, the master of the Alceste, took up his quarters in the temple, in order to be near his observatory, which was in the centre of the garden. The stores of all kinds were sent on sh.o.r.e from the Alceste, which produced an apparent confusion, and the chiefs, seeing so many valuable things lying about, began to fear that they would be taken away; at least, it was supposed that they had such an apprehension, for the wall of the temple was immediately fenced in by a sort of net-work of long bamboo poles, the ends of which were fixed in the ground at the foot of the wall on the outside, and the tops made to cross one another four or five feet above the wall. This contrivance, instead of rendering the place more secure, made it more accessible; but as our opinion was not asked, and we had no apprehensions of theft, we let them proceed in their own way.

Mrs. Loy, wife of the boatswain of the Alceste, was the only female in our squadron, and as such excited no small interest at this place. She was a perfectly well behaved person, and sufficiently neat in her dress, but without great pretensions to good looks. The natives, who from the first paid her much attention, shewed at all times their desire of granting her every indulgence. They even went so far as to say she might go into the city; but, upon consulting with her husband, who was apprehensive of some accident, she declined it. When this circ.u.mstance became known to us, we easily convinced the boatswain that no mischief could possibly arise from trusting his wife amongst such kind people; but Mrs. Loy could not be persuaded of this; and thus was lost the only opportunity of seeing the town which occurred during all our stay.

Two of the natives have been studying English with great a.s.siduity, and with considerable success. One is called Madera, the other Anya. They carry note books in imitation of Mr. Clifford, in which they record in their own characters every word they learn. They are both keen fellows, and are always amongst the strangers. From the respect occasionally paid to them, it is suspected that their rank is higher than they give out, and that their object in pretending to be people of ordinary rank, is to obtain a more free intercourse with all cla.s.ses on board the s.h.i.+ps.

Madera, by his liveliness and his propriety of manners, has made himself a great favourite; he adopts our customs with a sort of intuitive readiness, sits down to table, uses a knife and fork, converses, and walks with us, in short, does every thing that we do, quite as a matter of course, without any apparent effort or study. He is further recommended to us by the free way in which he communicates every thing relating to his country; so that as he advances in English, and we in Loo-choo, he may be the means of giving us much information. As an instance of his progress in English, it may be mentioned, that one day he came on board the Lyra, and said, ”The Ta-yin speak me, 'you go s.h.i.+p, John come sh.o.r.e;'” by which we understood that Captain Maxwell had sent him on board the brig for the interpreter. This was about three weeks after our arrival.

[Ill.u.s.tration: PRIEST and GENTLEMAN of LOO-CHOO.]

Most of the natives have acquired a little English, so that Mr. Clifford has now no difficulty in finding people willing to instruct him, and to take pains in correcting his p.r.o.nunciation. One of his teachers, called Yackabee Oomeejeero, will not permit him to write down a single word till he has acquired the exact Loo-choo sound: but he is like the rest in shewing an invincible objection to giving any information about the women. He admits that he is married, and gives the names of his sons: but when his wife or daughters are alluded to, he becomes uneasy, and changes the subject. On Mr. Clifford's gravely telling him that he believed there were no women on the island, he was thrown off his guard, and answered hastily, that he had both a wife and daughter, but instantly checking himself, turned the conversation another way. On the picture of an English lady being shewn to him, he commended it highly, saying, at the same time, ”Doochoo innago whooco oorung” (Loo-choo women are not handsome.) This old gentleman is a better teacher than scholar; he calls the letter L ”airoo;” veal, ”bairoo;” flail, ”frayroo;” in which instances of misp.r.o.nunciation, we may recognize a difficulty not uncommon amongst English children.

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 6: This circ.u.mstance is by no means common, and therefore cannot be depended on. In fine weather these reefs give no warning whatever, and a s.h.i.+p on approaching them ought invariably to have a boat a-head.]

[Footnote 7: Chin-chin in the corrupt dialect of Canton, means the ceremony of salutation, which consists in the action of holding up the closed hands, pressed together before the face, and bowing at the same time.]