Part 23 (1/2)

1 recipe brown riceAbout cup peanut or vegetable oil2 tablespoons minced garlic1 tablespoon grated or minced fresh ginger4 cups a.s.sorted vegetables, trimmed, peeled, and seeded as needed and cut into bite-size pieces1 bunch scallions, sliced on the diagonal pound sh.e.l.lfish, meat, or tofu2 tablespoons soy sauceJuice of lime (optional)Salt and freshly ground black pepper cup any vegetable, shrimp, or fish stock, white wine, sake, or waterChopped cilantro, mint, or Thai basil (optional)

1 Start the rice. After preparing the vegetables, separate them according to what will cook fastest and what will take longer. If using only one vegetable, divide it into two batches. Start the rice. After preparing the vegetables, separate them according to what will cook fastest and what will take longer. If using only one vegetable, divide it into two batches.

2 Put a large, deep skillet over high heat. Add a tablespoon of the oil, swirl, and then add half the garlic and ginger. Cook for 15 seconds, stirring, then add one of the vegetables. Cook and stir until almost, but not quite done as you want it, from a minute or two for spinach to as much as 5 minutes for root vegetables. Transfer the vegetables to a bowl or platter and repeat with the remaining vegetables, adding more oil to the pan as needed to prevent sticking. Just before you take the last batch of vegetables out, add the scallions and give a good stir. Put a large, deep skillet over high heat. Add a tablespoon of the oil, swirl, and then add half the garlic and ginger. Cook for 15 seconds, stirring, then add one of the vegetables. Cook and stir until almost, but not quite done as you want it, from a minute or two for spinach to as much as 5 minutes for root vegetables. Transfer the vegetables to a bowl or platter and repeat with the remaining vegetables, adding more oil to the pan as needed to prevent sticking. Just before you take the last batch of vegetables out, add the scallions and give a good stir.

3 Turn the heat down to medium and add another tablespoon of oil to the pan, then the remaining garlic and ginger. Stir; then add the sh.e.l.lfish, meat, or tofu. Raise the heat to high, stir once, then let it sit for 1 minute before stirring again. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the protein has lost its pink color, about 3 minutes for shrimp and scallops and about 5 minutes for chicken and other meats. Turn the heat down to medium and add another tablespoon of oil to the pan, then the remaining garlic and ginger. Stir; then add the sh.e.l.lfish, meat, or tofu. Raise the heat to high, stir once, then let it sit for 1 minute before stirring again. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the protein has lost its pink color, about 3 minutes for shrimp and scallops and about 5 minutes for chicken and other meats.

Some Simple Additions to Any Stir-FryAdd either chopped fresh chile or red chile flakes to taste, along with the garlic.Add 2 tablespoons whole or chopped peanuts or cashews when you return the vegetables to the pan.Add 1 teaspoon ground spices, especially Sichuan peppercorns, with the garlic.Use nam pla (Thai fish sauce) in place of soy sauce.Add about 1 tablespoon ground bean paste (you can buy it at Chinese markets) during the last minute of cooking.Finish the dish with a tablespoon of toasted sesame seeds, simply sprinkled on top.

4 Return the vegetables to the pan and toss once or twice. Add the soy sauce and lime juice if you're using it; toss again. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, then add the liquid. Raise the heat to high and cook, stirring and sc.r.a.ping the bottom of the pan, until the liquid is reduced slightly and you've sc.r.a.ped up all the bits on the bottom of the pan. Garnish with basil, cilantro, or mint and serve. Return the vegetables to the pan and toss once or twice. Add the soy sauce and lime juice if you're using it; toss again. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, then add the liquid. Raise the heat to high and cook, stirring and sc.r.a.ping the bottom of the pan, until the liquid is reduced slightly and you've sc.r.a.ped up all the bits on the bottom of the pan. Garnish with basil, cilantro, or mint and serve.

Roasted Vegetables with or without Fish or Meat

Makes: 4 servings .

Time: About 1 hour Time: About 1 hour

A spectacular way to take advantage of vegetables in season, since the technique remains the same whether you use root vegetables or anything else. Vary it depending on what you've got, but remember that cooking times will be shorter for more tender vegetables and longer for st.u.r.dier ones. This recipe makes a wonderful bed for any fish, chicken, or meat, which can be cooked right on top of the vegetables.

pound waxy potatoes pound carrots pound celery root, turnips, or rutabaga pound parsnips or beets1 medium onion, chopped3 tablespoons olive oil, plus more as neededSalt and freshly ground black pepper1 tablespoon minced garlic1 tablespoon fresh minced rosemary or sage (optional) to 1 pound fish fillets, chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s or tenders, boneless pork chops, or lamb ribs, divided in 4 portions (optional)Juice of 1 lemon (optional)

1 Heat the oven to 450F. Trim and peel the vegetables as necessary and cut them into 1-inch cubes. Mix them together in a large roasting pan or baking dish, along with the olive oil; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Heat the oven to 450F. Trim and peel the vegetables as necessary and cut them into 1-inch cubes. Mix them together in a large roasting pan or baking dish, along with the olive oil; sprinkle with salt and pepper.

2 Roast the vegetables for about 20 minutes, stirring once or twice, until they're just beginning to get tender. Add the garlic and herb if you're using it; toss to combine. Roast the vegetables for about 20 minutes, stirring once or twice, until they're just beginning to get tender. Add the garlic and herb if you're using it; toss to combine.

3 If you're adding fish, chicken, or meat, lay it directly on top of the vegetables, brus.h.i.+ng with some of the oil from the pan. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and return to the oven for another 8 to 15 minutes, depending on what you're cooking, basting once or twice with the pan juices. Taste and adjust the seasoning; add the lemon juice if you like, and serve. If you're adding fish, chicken, or meat, lay it directly on top of the vegetables, brus.h.i.+ng with some of the oil from the pan. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and return to the oven for another 8 to 15 minutes, depending on what you're cooking, basting once or twice with the pan juices. Taste and adjust the seasoning; add the lemon juice if you like, and serve.

Braised Vegetables with Prosciutto, Bacon, or Ham

Makes: 4 servings .

Time: 45 minutes Time: 45 minutes

Like meat braises and stews, the goal here is to produce the tenderness and complex flavors that come from fully softened ingredients and a luxuriously thick cooking liquid. The same technique works for any vegetable or even any combination of vegetables (I've given some specific examples in the main recipe), since the timing of doneness isn't crucial. Likewise, check out the different seasoning options in the list that follows, or experiment on your own. Serve this with whole grains or toss with some pasta.

3 tablespoons olive oil1 large onion or several shallots, halved and sliced pound chopped prosciutto, cured or smoked ham, pancetta, or bacon (optional)1 or 2 whole small dried chiles (optional)Salt and freshly ground black pepper2 or 3 sprigs of fresh thyme or 1 sprig of rosemary or oregano2 pounds any vegetable (alone or in combination), like Brussels sprouts, eggplant, carrots or parsnips, turnips or rutabaga, beets, kale or collards, string beans, or celery2 cups vegetable stock, white or red wine, beer, or water cup fresh chopped parsley leaves, for garnish

1 Put 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large pot or Dutch oven and turn the heat to medium. When the oil is hot, add the onion and the meat and chiles if you're using them; sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions begin to color, about 5 minutes. Add the herb sprigs, turn the heat down a bit, and keep cooking, stirring once in a while, until the color deepens, another 5 minutes or so. Remove everything with a slotted spoon. Put 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large pot or Dutch oven and turn the heat to medium. When the oil is hot, add the onion and the meat and chiles if you're using them; sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions begin to color, about 5 minutes. Add the herb sprigs, turn the heat down a bit, and keep cooking, stirring once in a while, until the color deepens, another 5 minutes or so. Remove everything with a slotted spoon.

2 Meanwhile, trim and peel the vegetables as needed and cut them into large (at least 2-inch) chunks, or leave them whole if they're any smaller than that. Meanwhile, trim and peel the vegetables as needed and cut them into large (at least 2-inch) chunks, or leave them whole if they're any smaller than that.