Volume I Part 38 (1/2)

ANCHOR TO THE NORTH OF THE GASCOYNE.

March 24.

The morning did not promise very well, but soon after sunrise the wind s.h.i.+fted so much to the westward that we were able to run along sh.o.r.e, and in the course of the day we made altogether about forty-five miles, tracing the greater part of the remaining unknown portion of the sh.o.r.es of Shark Bay. On leaving the Gascoyne, a low point bore due south of us, distant about twelve miles, which I named Point Greenough after George Bellas Greenough, Esquire, the president of the Royal Geographical Society; and between this point and the river lay a deep bay, the sh.o.r.es of which were low and thickly studded with mangroves, through which many salt.w.a.ter creeks ran up into the country. Two of these creeks I had examined on a previous occasion, and therefore now paid no attention to them.

EXAMINE THE COAST TO THE SOUTHWARD. ITS CHARACTER.

After pa.s.sing Point Greenough the sh.o.r.e trended south by east and for the next eight miles preserved its low character, being still thickly wooded with mangroves; but at this point a remarkable change takes place as the mangroves suddenly cease, and the low range of hills which extends southward along the coast parallel to the sh.o.r.e increases a little in height. In about another mile the mangroves again commence, the coast now trending south-east; and about five miles further it runs south-east by east, forming a bay about four miles deep, the bottom of which is tolerably clear of mangroves.

CONTINUE OUR COURSE TO THE SOUTHWARD.

Having crossed this bay we ran south-east by south parallel to the sh.o.r.e; the mangroves now became less continuous and numerous, at least they appeared to us to be so, and the range of hills seemed also to approach much nearer to the sea. We continued on this course until sunset, when I selected a snug little bay in the mangroves, where we anch.o.r.ed at the distance of a few yards from the sh.o.r.e and made ourselves as comfortable as we could for the night.

CHARACTER OF THE COAST AND SEA.

There was great beauty in the scenery which we saw during the day's sail; the waters and the sky had that peculiar brilliancy about them which is only seen in fine weather and in a tropical climate. To the west of us lay an apparently boundless expanse of sea, whilst to the eastward we had a low sh.o.r.e fringed with trees, not only down to the water's edge but forming little green knolls of foliage in the ocean itself; behind these trees lay low wooded hills, and in front of them stalked and swam about pelicans and waterfowl in countless numbers. We had only about three feet depth of clear transparent water, through which we saw that the flats beneath us were covered with vivid coloured sh.e.l.ls of many genera, some of which were of a very large size; strange-looking fish of a variety of kinds were also sporting about; more particularly sharks of a new species (of that kind which I shot at in mistake for an alligator) and stingrays.

Whenever a lull occurred the men, unable to resist the chance of getting a meal, would jump out of the boat, and give chase to one of these sting-rays, boat-hook in hand, and then loud peals of laughter rose from the others as the pursuer, too anxious to attain his object, missed his stroke or, stumbling, rolled headlong in the water. The fineness of the day, the novelty of the scenery, and the rapid way we were making made the poor fellows forget past dangers, as well as those they had yet to undergo. My own meditations were of a more melancholy character, for I feared that the days of some of the light-hearted group were already numbered and would soon be brought to a close. Amidst such scenes and thoughts we were swept along, whilst this unknown coast, which so many had anxiously yet vainly wished to see, pa.s.sed before our eyes like a panorama or a dream, and, ere many years have hurried by it is probable that the recollection of this day will be as such to me.

BOAT LEFT AGROUND BY THE TIDE.

March 25.

This morning I was up early in order that we might lose no time in getting under weigh; I was much surprised however to find both boats aground, and when the day had dawned sufficiently to enable me to distinguish surrounding objects I could not make out the sea, but found that we were lodged in a regular mangrove bush. I walked a few yards to get a clear view to the westward and found that we were at least a mile inland, so far does the tide run in over this low level sh.o.r.e. My eyes were so sore that I could scarcely see and I therefore did not attempt to make an excursion into the country, but sent a party for this purpose, who ascended the first low range of hills and reported that the country as far as they could see to the eastward was a succession of low mud flats subject to the overflowings of the sea. There was a promising-looking creek immediately to the south of us.

The tide came very slowly in until ten o'clock, which was about the time of high-water: but here it had only half risen and remained stationary for some time, when it began to ebb again, but soon meeting the second flood, now came pouring rapidly in, and just before sunset there was water enough for us to get off. We pulled to a low point, distant about two miles, and which bore south by east from us; and having anch.o.r.ed off this waited for the morning dawn to pursue our voyage.

CONTINUE A SOUTHERLY COURSE.

March 26.

In the morning I found that the point we were anch.o.r.ed off ran south-east and north-west: it was about two miles long and formed a low spit of land whence the coast trended due south. I debated for a few minutes whether I should explore the creek which lay to the south of us, but decided in the negative. Had I followed my own wishes I should have done so, but the lives of others now depended on my incurring no unjustifiable delay, and it did not therefore appear to be of importance; besides, as we had now traced the unknown portions of this great bay, and had moreover discovered in it a country in every way fitted for immediate occupation, and which indeed appeared from its soil and position to be one of the most valuable portions of the western side of the Continent, I thought that everything worthy of any great risk or danger had been accomplished, and resolved to hurry homewards.

STEER FROM THE MAIN.

After following the coast for a few miles further to the south I considered we were now far enough to windward to fetch somewhere near the centre of Perron's Peninsula; I therefore made sail and steered for that point.

ANOTHER GALE OF WIND.

Our pa.s.sage across was a long and tedious one, and when at last towards evening we sighted Perron's Peninsula it was very evident that my boat would not do more than fetch the very northern point, but the other boat, which was a much better sailer, was nearly a mile to windward of us. The weather had been for the last hour or two very threatening, and we had reached to within two miles of the sh.o.r.e when the wind suddenly s.h.i.+fted to the south-west and began to blow a terrific gale. We had just time to down sail and take to the oars, and as every one of the crew saw that his life depended on it they gave way strenuously. We were under the lee of the Peninsula and had it not been for this circ.u.mstance must undoubtedly have been lost. That gale of wind was a terrible and magnificent sight. I stood at the steer oar; the waves lifted the boat each time nearly broadside on, and it was all I could do to bring her head round in time to meet the next sea, but the men pulled steadily. ”Now men, give way for your lives,” I called out if they flagged, and renewed energy was instantly infused into all of them. At times we could not hold our own against the wind and waves, and at the most favourable moments seemed merely to stand still. I looked at the sh.o.r.e until my eyes ached; but no nearer did it appear to be than at first, and gradually grew less distinct as the daylight faded. We could only see the other boat now and then; but although she was evidently in imminent peril they were much nearer in sh.o.r.e than we were. The danger we underwent on this occasion was great; but the excitement of so wild and grand a scene was highly pleasurable, and when success at last crowned our exertions, and we went dancing wildly in through the surf and spray upon a rocky unknown sh.o.r.e, and found the other crew on the beach ready to help us in hauling up, I felt that there is a charm attached to scenes like these which can only be fully estimated by those who have experienced it. Having in our turn a.s.sisted to haul up the other boat we lighted our fires and laid down for the night.

PERRON'S PENINSULA.

March 27.

This morning I found that all our hands were so fatigued by the exertions of the previous day that a few hours of comparative rest was absolutely necessary. I therefore directed them to stroll about the beach for an hour or two and to collect oysters or sh.e.l.lfish. The part of Perron's Peninsula which we were on consists of abrupt cliffs of the height of about two hundred feet; at the base of these and between them and the sea there is a narrow strip of sandy land and dunes, and at their summit is a barren sandy tableland, gently sloping away to the southward and appearing to extend throughout the whole length of the peninsula.

As soon as I thought the men were sufficiently rested we launched the boats, but on rounding the northern extremity of the peninsula met a heavy sea running from the southward and were obliged to take to the oars. We had not got more than two miles to the southward of Cape Leseuer when I saw so many indications of an approaching gale that I ran in again and beached the boats; and this operation was hardly accomplished ere it blew with terrific violence from the south-south-west. Both here and at our last night's encampment we saw numerous signs of natives, and now found several native wells in the sandhills, but had no occasion to use them as we had regular tropical rain for the rest of the day. The men here brought me the bones of a very large marine animal which they had found at the natives' fire, but I could not recognise them as belonging to any that I was acquainted with. At this period, from bad food and being constantly wet with salt water, we were all afflicted with sores of the most painful and annoying character, and these much increased the unpleasantness of our situation.

ANOTHER GALE.